VOGUE RUNWAY: MM6 MAISON MARGIELA Pre Fall 2022 / by Slow Waves

 

You’d be hard pressed to guess that military uniforms were the reference for MM6’s design collective this season. That’s to the collection’s benefit. While pointed yokes pull from army detailing and a shearling miniskirt and jacket bring to mind classic aviator styles, broadly speaking, the pre-fall collection just consists of really good, really weird, and really ingenious garments.

That’s the MM6 strong suit: something surreal for the everyday. Modularity is a key obsession; here jackets are cut with two sets of arm holes so they can be worn like vests. Knits have holes at the hips to allow hands to slip through and into the pockets of voluminous trousers, and nylon is used to puff up blazers and MA-1 jackets to cushy new proportions. Meanwhile, trompe l’oeil and flat, two-dimensional shapes have been revived with printed mesh and a V-neck that harkens back to Martin’s spring 1998 flat collection. As the industry strains and contorts to imagine what life—and wardrobes—will look like in the summer of 2022, MM6 has the right intentions. Fashion is getting bolder, stranger, and wackier: It’s what MM6 has been working on all along.

By Steff Yotka